Ask Deb! Q & A

I get asked this question often. There are a lot of factors to consider when deciding what bike is best for you. Your height, weight, personality, and what type of riding you will want to do are all key factors to making a good decision.

Getting advice from riders and dealers is a good place to start, but use it with caution. Do not let anyone push you into purchasing a bike you are not comfortable with. Most riders opt to start with a bike that is easy to ride. This allows you to concentrate on learning and gaining confidence. A word of caution, DO NOT get a bike that is too small for you. This will
force you to ride in an improper position, affecting the control and handling of the bike. All that is necessary, is to be able to touch with the balls of your feet. If a bike is a bit tall, remember as long as you can touch , you are ok. Also, bikes will settle in once the suspension breaks in and it is set up properly for you, which will lower the bike somewhat. There are also a few tricks you can do to lower it for you, but be careful if you choose to do this. It is very important to keep the same handlebar/footpaeg and seat relationships to keep you in the proper position. Once you master your bike and are ready for more power and suspension, go up in bike size. Be sure to have the suspension set up properly for you. This will make a big difference in control and your ability to touch.

Basic differences: You see a large hill....What do you do??? 4 Stroke- Start up the hill, stop half way up and have a picnic lunch, fire it back up and go over the top. 2 Stroke- Hit the hill with as much momentum as you can muster, and DO NOT stop for lunch !

2 Strokes: KX, CR, YZ, RM. More abrupt power. Comes on strong, but keeping the RPM's up is critical. Lightweight, ez to flick around and jump. Snappy throttle response which can be great fun, once you get the hang of it.

4 Strokes: CRF, XR, YZF, TTR, KLX, DRZ-Generally ez to ride. Good useable power. F Series bikes (CRF, YZF, DRZ) utilize MX technology-Good Suspension, lighter weight, but are generally taller. Just remember, the F models can sit pretty tall too. The XR, KLX, TTR-are great learner bikes, but expect to outgrow them quickly. The good news is their resale value is very good and they will sell quickly. These bikes are a bit more mellow, heavier and do not have the same suspension and handling of the other bikes. It's pretty much like jumping a tank.

125 is lighter and easier to jump, 250 has more power and is easier to ride, but for a beginner, it is almost always too much power. There are also alot of great entry level bikes you can get started with. Yamaha TTR and YZF, Honda's XR and CRF, Kawasaki's KLX, KDX or KX, Suzuki's DRZ.

Weight is a factor. Can you pick it up once you drop it? How much will the extra weight affect you? Also you cannot brake as quickly on the bigger bike because of the extra weight and power, and when you do get off, count on being pounded a bit more. However, because of the additional power, your ability to use power to get you out of a bad situation is increased, but if
you bail anyway, it will be spectacular., LOL

The choice is ultimately yours. I still prefer a 2 stroke, for the snappy power, good braking, weight and throw around ability, but if you ride trails, hills, like good ez power, and don't mind messing with a compression release, go for the 4 stroke. I must admit, although a real 2 stroke fan, there are some GREAT 4-strokes out now, that to be honest, have captured my attention.

Debbie

I was thinking you might like to put this little story of mine up on your website to show people how serious they should take your advice. I took your September 8th class at Argylle Park, Dixon. Well while we were doing the braking drill where you try to stop as quickly as possible, you and Chrystal told me that I needed to improve my braking skills. You said something like they didn't match how aggressive I was with the throttle. When I rode the following week I did practice my braking skills a little but not nearly as much as I should have. Later on in the day I went too fast into a turn and went over the berm which resulted in me breaking my ankle. I now have a metal plate and seven screws holding all the bits of bone together. Now I feel so stupid because if I had worked on my braking like you had said I would be riding right now. I deserve what I got for not paying enough attention to what you and Chrystal told me. But anyway I had a great time during the class and I have written down everything I remember so I know what to work on once I am riding again.
Thanks,
Lucy

A: Hi Lucy,

Sorry to hear about your accident. I know it's hard, but take the time to heal right, and when you come back, expect a little fear. It may take some time to get your physical strength and confidence back, but you can do it.

Injuries suck, but they can really help you learn about yourself and teach you valuable lessons that will make you a better rider. The trick is to learn from your mistakes.

Get better !!! When you come back, set realistic goals, don't focus on the fear, focus on your riding. The more you can do that, the quicker you will be back, confident, focused and having fun!

All the best.

Deb

Firstly, I just want to say how inspiring your site is. Secondly, I am 34, and live in Los Angeles (near Pasadena) and finally (after many years of wanting to) took the Beginners Motorcycle class and passed my C1 test. Now I own a Honda CB350 from 1971 and am struggling to feel comfortable on the bike. I have a million questions for you, but will keep it to 2:
1) Is it just a matter of practice or is there a teacher/class here in LA you could recommend. the class I took was really rushed and although I passed my test, I feel if it would have been graded I would have gotten a D!) I'm really intimidated by traffic.
2) Since I have an older bike (I'm into small Classic bikes (up to 400cc like BSA, Jawa, etc....) and thus need some serious mechanic instruction. It's hard because I don't know anyone who rides.
Ideally, I want to be able to troubleshoot and fix the basics leaving anything hardcore for a professional to do. I also want to feel comfortable on the bike. When I get going, it seems to come naturally, but going slowly and starting up I am so awkward. Thanks for your time. I really appreciate it!

I have been riding street and off road for 28 years. Getting comfortable on a bike takes time. In the case of street riding it is further complicated, because if you are not comfortable on your bike or with your abilities, you will not be comfortable or confident riding in traffic. This is a normal, but can be dangerous to you.

The best advice I can offer is try to avoid heavy traffic situations while you are adjusting to the bike and take advantage of opportunities to get ALL THE TRAINING YOU CAN on a track, and at schools, away from the added pressures of riding on the street. A course in off road riding such as ours is also very beneficial. By learning the techniques in the dirt, you can learn how to brake effectively, slide, counter steer and learn how to control a bike in an atmosphere free from traffic and the worries of dropping your bike. Dirt bikes are designed to take a lot of falls with little or no damage, so they are great tools for learning and a lot of fun besides! I have many street riders taking my classes for just these reasons. They love it, and all have expressed how much the experience helped them in their street riding.

For me, although I am confident in my abilities, I have never gotten comfortable with traffic. I have learned to expect that the cars don't see me, or choose not to care. This can be good, because it keeps me very alert, although definitely not as relaxing as riding off road.

As far a maintaining your bikes, a lot of good information is contained in your owners manual. I strongly recommend that you purchase a factory service manual if you want to do your own servicing of the machine. These manuals offer very clear step by step instructions. Cost is usually about $ 40.00.

Be sure to take your bike to a qualified dealer for schedule maintenance and ANYTIME you are not absolutely sure how to proceed. Although I do ALL my own work on my dirt bikes (including splitting my own cases), I leave the street bike maintenance to the dealers, with the exception of general maintenance such as tire pressure, oil changes, chain adjustments, etc. Just remember, when in doubt, ASK. You will find most dealers very helpful on how to set your bike up properly for you and answer any questions you have on basic maintenance you can perform. One dealer not far from you I highly recommend is Pomona Valley Kawasaki. Tell Ralph I sent you. They are really great and will answer all your questions and offer you quality service and parts.

Q: Debbie,
Hello, I am looking for Motocross boots that will fit my small feet. I just recently purchased a pair of Fox Forma's (kids size 4) and they fit in the foot, but my calves are too big. I am about 5'2" and weigh about 125 lbs. I need small boots, but ones that I will be able to buckle with my pants and shin guards on. I understand that the kids boots are made for 85 lb boys, but do you have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Melissa

A: Hi Melissa,
This is a common problem. About the only thing you can do is to take the boot to a boot tailor. They can add enough leather to make the boot fit the calves properly. You could also try Alpinestars size 5, and insert a sorbethane cushion in the bottom of the boot. (runners inserts) This will add extra cushioning in the sole of the boot and lift her foot up an eighth to a quarter inch in the boot, effectively sizing it down. You can also wear a thick pair of socks; it will size it down even more and provide a nice snug fit. Good Luck.
Debbie

Q: Dear Deb,
Just a question...after the class, do you think I'd be ready for a race? I've ridden some at tracks, but nothing major, like racing. That's why I want to go to the class. Thanks for the info!
Maggie

A: Dear Maggie,
As far as you being ready to race after a school, that is a decision only you can make. The school will help you a lot, but it won't prepare you for everything you encounter while racing. Some things you just need to learn by experience. If you are comfortable enough, go for it. We all had to start somewhere. There will be many women just like you. Just go out and enjoy yourself at your own pace.

Deb

Q: Dear Deb,
I ride in the ladies class in the TCCRA (Texas Cross Country Racing Assoc.) and several others in the TCCRA are interested as well. Some of the questions I've gotten are:

A: Dear Cindy,
Our instructors include top women and men pros, and the techniques taught apply to all off road riding. We can tailor school to your individual needs. If there is a BIG difference in abilities, the class will be divided, although it rarely is necessary. All riders fast or slower need to refine basic technique, so speed us usually not a big determining factor. Specific XC technique can and is taught in our XC classes, although you will find that MX technique properly utilized will yield very effective results in XC. If some of your riders are injured, it is their choice if they are fit enough to participate in the class. Only they can make that determination for themselves. If they choose to ride and the instructor feels they are a danger to themselves or someone else, the instructor has the right to remove them from the class and their money will be applied to another class. Class is 6 hours in length with occasional breaks. We will explain the technique, demonstrate the technique and have you apply it, with instructors guidance, repeating as necessary. You don't need to ride hard to gain from a school. The objective is to slow down to go faster. Learn the technique properly and increase your speed gradually as you become comfortable with the technique. That way you do not develop any bad habits that are hard to break later on.
Debbie

Q: Hi Debbie,
It's been some time since my last email to you. I hope you don't mind giving me some advice. I race in the Virginia Championship Hare Scramble Series (VCHSS) in the women's class. I currently ride a Honda CR80 Expert. I am interested in doing both motocross and scrambles, but wanted to know if they have an 80cc class for females or of my age (32). OR Do you recommend I move up to a 125cc for motocross racing? I love speed, enjoy the track, but am just learning how to make jumps. I am planning to go to one of your schools, hopefully in March, to learn a thing or two before the season starts. Can ya help me? Desperately seeking motocross speed.
Lorelle

A: Hi Lorelle,
To answer your questions, your location will determine what types of women's classes are offered. Generally speaking, most tracks offer an open cc women's class. Not all promoters offer a women's class so be sure to call the promoter first and make sure they offer one.

Concerning what size bike you should ride, there are several factors to consider. Height, weight, skill, and type of power desired. Your primary concern is your height. If you are 5ft-5'4" you should consider a 80-100cc. The 100 has a slightly longer wheelbase offering better stability, handling, and suspension than the 80. The 80, because of it's shorter wheelbase and lower weight can corner quicker and brake deeper for the turns. A 125 offers more stability, better suspension, and more power. These guidelines generally apply to all bikes as you go up in size. Your weight can determine bike size as well. If you are small in stature, but you are significantly heavier than other riders on the same size machine, you may look to ride a 100. It is only slightly taller than an 80, but has more power and suspension. If you are 5'5" or taller a 125cc machine is probably best. Power wise all these bikes make good power that is easy to control. Finally, make sure you are comfortable on the bike you are riding. Take the time to set it up properly for you. When you are ready, hit the track and have some fun. Good luck, and I'll see you at one of our schools when you are ready !!
Debbie

Q: Debbie,
First, it was great meeting you. I really enjoyed hearing about your riding career when we met in the museum. As I said then, it's women like you who have made riding easier for women like me, who have started much more recently. I'm working on an article for a motorcycle magazine on things that manufacturers could do for female street riders. This is an area of motorcycling that I've had no experience with and would love some help, if you could. I'm looking at things like fit and styling. For example, on street bikes, there can be issues for women riders with bars, clutches, shifters, handlebar-to-seat-to-peg ratios, seats, seat height, etc. If you've got ideas, please let me know. Sharon

A: Hi Sharon,
The issues women and men riders face who are "vertically challenged" are virtually the same. These areas of difficulty can be overcome by doing a little homework. Several key items that can make a world of difference for these riders are currently on the market, but widely unknown by the consumer. The majority of these items come from the Aftermarket end of the industry, not the OEM (factories). This is how it should be. The OEM is responsible to produce a line of motorcycles to fit a wide range of demographics and consumers. To ask the OEM's to custom fit machines to the masses is a request that cannot possibly be met by the manufacturer. As one female attendee at the AMA conference summed it up when the issue was raised by another participant why the OEM's couldn't design as seat that fit her properly, the other participant replied: "Seats are as individual as the shape of your butt." To ask the OEM's to design additional products just for women isn't their role in the industry. That role belongs and should belong to the Aftermarket industry. Here's where the problem really lies.

OEM's encourage and support Aftermarket companies in the development of consumer friendly products. OEM's include some of these items in their Accessory catalogs available to the dealer. Dealers purchase these items from the OEM accessory catalogs and directly from the Aftermarket companies or their distributors. However, few dealers have these items "IN STOCK" for display. The reasons are simple. Because the bikes fit "the masses" , dealers are going to "stock" what they know they can sell quickly. While a product may be "worthy", it may not be profitable for the dealer to stock. In order for the item to be purchased from the dealer, the dealer must have selected the correct bike, model, year and color when the consumer sees the product on display to sell it. This is not easy. If the dealer doesn't have the perfect criteria matched, they may order it for the consumer which they are happy to do, but the money out for the display item is still out, and the dealer may in fact never sell the item bought for display, as models and the hot bike of the day change rapidly in this industry.

SO WHAT IS THE SOLUTION ? Certainly, if dealers "stock" more of the specialty items that would help, but dealers are reluctant to stock specialty items that are so personal in nature. I believe the solution lies in educating the public and dealers better, as to what options are available to the public. The industry has been providing educational seminars to dealers for several years now and the results are excellent for the dealers who send their employees to attend these seminars. The public also has a responsibility to actively seek to educate themselves on the products available to them. This can be done in several ways. Perhaps we as an industry should look into providing similar seminars to the public at specific times during the Consumer trade shows that tour the country. Consumers need to ASK dealers for information on specific items you are looking for or tell them about challenges you face and ask them for suggestions. Most dealers are only too willing to help you, and of course make the sale. A large part of the solution should come from the Aftermarket companies themselves. Why not create an advertising campaign specifically targeted to the consumer for these types of products. If the public and dealers were more aware that "your company" had these items, the products would fly off your shelves. The ad slogan could be as simple as "Vertically Challenged ?" We've got the parts for you. Maybe that concept is a little to harsh, but you get the idea.

The challenges faced by all riders are the same. Make the bike fit you, and the way you ride. There is no way I can give you absolutes on which companies products will fit your individual needs, but I can offer suggestions on which companies and products "vertically challenged" and women riders tend to use, based on my observations and experience in the off road industry over the last 26 years. Remember, these are only my observations. They are NOT absolutes. Go to your dealer and try the options available and pick what works for you! Many dealers will special order items for you with the assurance from the manufacturer that the item can be returned or exchanged if it doesn't meet the customers needs.

Here is a list of the most frequented companies I have observed being used most by the female and vertically challenged population. Remember...your individual needs vary, so shop around. The one that's works for you is just around the corner...... Gear-MC Gear is a new company specializing in women's offroad apparel. MC Gear is owned and operated by Femmegear tycoon Dee Modglin. Fox recently brought out a few sizes in womens pants and jerseys as well. In mens gear, THOR, FOX, AXO, SINISALO are commonly used by women riders, unaware that there are quality products on the market specifically designed for them. Chest protectors-ACERBIS produces the only "women's" chest protector. This unit actually is shaped for those of us with curves ! Other companies manufacture flat chested plates which can be used if you loosen the straps. Be aware, that some protectors are too long in the torso and may choke you when you assume the proper riding position. Aftermarket parts and suspension. WHITE BROTHERS- Need to lower or customize your suspension ? Find a higher or lower seat ? Different levers, bars, or pegs ? These guys have great stock on all the trick items you may be looking for ! Seats- CEET RACING Bars-ANSWER PRODUCTS, RENTHAL, 909, Pegs- IMS, Boots- ALPINESTAR makes adult size boots starting in size 5. No other boot manufacturer to my knowledge has adult boots starting in this size range. You can get kids size boots, but generally speaking they are too small in the calf area and a little short in height for adults. If you need kid boots, and they don't fit around the calf, take them to a boot shop and have leather added to them, or purchase boot strap extensions also available from Alpinestar. Encourage boot manufacturers to start adult sizes at size 4 or perhaps offer different sole heights. Since boots do not come in 1/2 sizes, you can also purchase inserts (sorbathane works great) like the runners use in their shoes. These will add extra cushioning and change the sizing on your boot by 1/2 a size. The thickness of the sock you choose will also assist in comfort and sizing. WOMEN SPECIFIC CLOTHING-Several women clothing companies are springing up in the off road community. Here are a few of the companies I am aware of. MC GEAR- Owned by Dee Modglin of Femmgear. MC GEAR is the first line of women's offroad gear designed to outfit the serious woman rider with outstanding fashion and Un-paralleled quality and fit ! MC GEAR was developed using real women riders and real rider input. You will love the results ! MC Gear is available online or visit our store to view and purchase ! Fox Racing has also recently opted for a small women's line of gear. New companies are starting every day, so look around !
Debbie

Q: Hey Debbie, Your site is awesome, I race 80's and have just been racing for 1 year and love it my dad built us a track in our yard and I am finally improving everyday. Just writing to say hey and tell you your site is awesome. Well I was also wondering any tips you could give me by emailing them to me my worst thing is starting, any advice I would appreciate. Thanks and Good Luck, Leslie

A: Leslie,
The most important ingredients to a good start are practice, patience timing and anticipation. Pick a straight , short line to the first turn you feel comfortable with. Watch the starter several races prior to your start get a feel for any tendencies he/she may have that will tell you they are about to drop the gate. Watch several starts and see if most the good starts are coming from a particular area. Pick an area that is free from crooked ruts, deep dirt and rocks. Clean your start area and line yourself up straight. Think about what options you can utilize if you don't get the desired start. Be positive.

Starts are a mind game too, so don't line up next to someone who you aren't comfortable with if it can be avoided. Chances are you will be focusing on them, rather than yourself which is a recipe for disaster. Picture yourself getting the desired start. Try to stay as calm as possible. Maintain regular breathing and focus, but stay relaxed. Put all distractions out of your mind.

Check the clutch disengagement (traction) prior to your start so you have an idea how much throttle to give it coming off the line. Wait until about 5-10 seconds before the gate drops to put into gear. START IN SECOND GEAR. Trust me on this. There is only a handful of times where first gear is appropriate. Your bike has more than enough power for most applications and you will have a more controlled start. Place your full weight on the seat with your body in the neutral position on the front area of the seat. DO NOT LEAN FORWARD AT THIS TIME. Feet should be placed in front of the pegs, throttle 1/2 to 3/4 open, utilizing a re-grip or over grip. Look at the gate next to you, to the side of your gate, or at the pin. Try to avoid looking directly ahead on your gate as your eyes pick up peripheral movement faster than straight on. Get the clutch disengaged to where it wants to go, but you maintain control. If the gate slopes downward, hold your front brake on as well. Utilize 1-2 fingers on both the brake and clutch. Using more fingers results in a loss of control and possibly a slower reaction. As the gate falls, release the brake (if you used it) and clutch simultaneously, releasing the clutch in a controlled release which may involve slipping the clutch a little to maintain good forward momentum. REMEMBER IT IS A CLUTCH FEED, NOT A DROP.

Do not dump/drop it or release/snap it hard. If you do this you will have a tendency to wheelie or spin the back tire losing time. Release the clutch in a smooth, precise release. Just as you release the clutch and the bike begins to move forward, be sure that you are moving your body forward with the release of the clutch. This way you are moving with the bike, rather than being pulled along. Get your feet on the pegs as quickly as possible. DO NOT drag them behind you. Practice a smooth, quick transition with your feet from on the ground to on the pegs, squeezing your legs or keeping them tight to the tank as you bring them onto the pegs. This will help keep the bike straight and allow for quick shifting. Power on the shifts, do not back off. Sometimes slipping a little clutch during shifts can aid the power delivery and assist in quick starts. Keep a finger on the clutch for quick fanning action if necessary. If the bike wheelies, do not back off the throttle. Pull in the clutch slightly to drop the front end without backing off the throttle. REMEMBER-THROTTLE CONTROLS SPEED, CLUTCH CONTROLS POWER DELIVERY AND SPEED !!!

Look where you want to go. Be aware of your surroundings, but don't over react to them. Brake standing, avoiding locking it up and sliding through the turn. You want to brake effectively and controlled as deeply as possible still maintaining momentum and control. For concrete, starts are very similar. The main difference is that you want to roll your butt cheeks back into the seat a little more and come off the gate without quite so much throttle as dirt, then hit it hard on the throttle as you hit the dirt. Too much throttle on the concrete you will spin the tire, wheelie and/or bog the motor. Note- I am not a big fan of smoking the tire to warm it up on a concrete start pad. Yes, it helps clean your pad and warm up the tire, but a warmed up clutch and good throttle control will yield a better start and not toast your $100 knobby in the process. Knobby's are something that you need for the next 20 minutes, and if you just rounded them all off on the start, how effective will your cornering and braking be for the entire moto with a bald knobby.... Food for thought.

Q: Hi Debbie,
I really need an objective, professional opinion. I am 37 years old and am just learning to ride as of 2 months ago. I don't know what avenue to pursue with a bike. Regardless of the direction I choose, I know that schooling is invaluable. Sooo... Am I too old to just be starting out and actually be competitive? How do I know if I have potential? What should I be able to do on the bike (hubby's old yz250) after a couple months that would give me a clue as to where I fit in? I am comfortable on the flats. I've layed it down, but I have never wrecked and fear of that is perhaps my biggest downfall (other than age and doubt?). I land correctly on small (1ft-2ft)jumps. Anyway, with no one to compare myself to (most good riders seem to have started early in life), how do I know if I have the basics? I'll start feeling pride in my speed or something and then some guy will just blow by me like I'm walking. I have extreme drive and persistence, and the YZ has a choke-hold on me, I can't stay off of it. Like I said, regardless, I'll play, but I need a non-bs opinion on the age and potential thing. I would really appreciate it! > > Deborah

No you are never too old to start out ! If you have the desire-go for it. I have taught riders as young as 2 and the oldest to date is 63, so you have alot of time left ! Racing is very personal in nature. Set goals that are realistic for you, practice and go out and have fun !!! The rest will come in time. Don't rush it, and don't get discouraged. If you are having fun, that's the whole point. Your skills will increase with confidence. Don't worry about other riders who blow by you. Chances are that they have more seat time, which builds confidence and hence the application of more throttle while maintaining good control and a higher comfort level. Again, just come out and ride, learn and perfect the basics (that's where we come in, hehe..), and have fun. How fast you progress is up to you. Don't let anyone dictate to you how fast you should ride or progress or spoil your fun or desire.. It is a very individual thing. This is one of the things that make motorcycles so much fun, regardless of your age. I am 41 years old and I am having more fun than ever ! You are never too old to learn and to have fun ! My advice in a few words..."GO FOR IT GIRL !"
Debbie

Q: Hi Debbie,

When you go down steep downhills (40-45 degrees) are you supposed to sit in the middle of the bike or stand "crouched" with your weight back ? Some of the people we ride with tell us to always just sit in the middle but in some of the videos and books my husband read, they say to stand with your weight back. Help!!! What about really steep downhills ie;50 + degrees???
Thanks very much for your help!!!
Kathy

A: Hi Kathy,
Generally speaking, you will be crouched in the attack position with your weight further to the rear. The steeper the hill, the further back you will need to be to counter the weight transfer to the front wheel as you descend. You want to stay light on the bike with your joints slightly bent. Stay fluid with the bike. Do not let it pull you along. It is really important to kick the bike up a few gears to allow it to roll and have some momentum behind it. Since you are not in neutral, you will have some engine braking naturally to assist you. Avoid locking up the brakes. Use front and rear as you descend, with a gentle pull on the controls.

If you feel the bike skid, release the controls to regain control and gently apply pressure again. If you are in too low of a gear, the bike will skid causing a loss of control. As long as the bike is skidding, your momentum will increase and you have little control till it stops sliding. This is why you want to maintain a speed you are comfortable with as you descend, so you can avoid locking the controls and losing control. Another way to control the skid, if you are in too low of a gear is to use the clutch to control you descent as well. By pulling in and releasing the clutch, you can keep the bike from stalling and use your engine braking very effectively. A technique used by more advanced riders if the hill is relatively smooth and has a straight run out, is to shift the bike into a higher gear and apply throttle while dragging the rear brake slightly. This will allow you to increase your momentum down the hill and utilize the gyro effect caused by the wheels spinning to straighten you out and propel you forward as you descend.

Whenever possible, keep your feet on the pegs, you will have much better control and balance. If the hill is really steep and freaks you out, look over the entire hill and choose the basic route you will want to follow, then, pick a section of the hill at a time to focus on ( 20-40 feet) as you start your descent. I find this really helps, when I am descending a really intimidating hill. By focusing on a particular section of the hill, I am not overwhelmed and can better relax and concentrate on the immediate real estate in front of me.

Debbie

I was wondering if this class is only geared towards MX riders. I've been riding for approx 15 years, but all enduro and trail riding (I have an XR200). I would love to enhance my jumping and cornering skills but if the class is only MX and only on the track, I wonder if it would make sense for me to participate? Thanks for your time.
Denise

A: Hi Denise,

Although the course has it's roots in MX and we use a MX course for training, every technique you learn at the school will help you in all aspects of your off-road riding. A MX facility is a convenient way to have a lot of obstacles you will encounter in your riding in a small area, ideal for training purposes. The majority of our students are not MX racers or have plans to be, they are riders just like yourself, who want to improve their riding experience and our class does just that. Keep in mind, that we do offer Desert, Off-Road, and Cross Country classes, as well as Learn to Ride ! I hope you will consider our class. You will have a great time.
Debbie

Topic: Help, I've crashed and lost all of my confidence

A: This is a problem common to riders of all ages, skill levels and experience. While it is a very common problem, solutions and regaining that edge can be frustrating. You have to realize that fear is your bodies way of protecting itself from danger, real or imagined. Once your recognize this and learn to work with it, instead of becoming frustrated you are on the road to regaining your confidence.

The mind perceives things in many different ways :

Physical- (getting hammered hard into the dirt when you fall-pain-OUCH )

Emotional-(How much fear/stress occurred before, during and after the crash, OH... *$@#**)

Stress Trauma-(combination of emotional and physical trauma OH... *$@#** / OUCH )

Memory (stored knowledge and experience).

When you fall, a Memory is stored within the body. There are two types of memory in your body. Brain Memory (record of the emotional trauma) and Muscle Memory (record of the physical trauma). Both are important to recognize in your recovery process. These memories will affect the way your brain perceives a crash and or injury, and your ability to regain your confidence. These memories also have a major effect on your health, well-being, stress, recovery, and training. For instance: Muscle Memory-provides the ability for your muscles to perform a task repetitively, such as riding a motorcycle, lifting weights, etc. Ever notice rider's that have ridden for many years can come back from an injury or time off and recover their lost speed and fitness many times quicker than a new rider? The answer is stored in the muscle memory of the individual. Your brain works much the same way via stored Brain memory or knowledge and experiences. When you experience an increase in knowledge or experience in life, your brain stores it for future use. Good or bad, it doesn't matter, the brain stores all accumulated knowledge and experience. When a situation comes along that stimulates the memory, your body and mind will react according to the knowledge and experience stored in the brain.

What I've learned in my years of riding, racing and crashing, is that alot of your "FEAR FACTOR" comes from how your mind perceives the crash. You can literally fall over in a turn at 10 miles an hour and experience the same type of "Fear" as shorting a double and endoing in 4th gear. I've had several get-offs where the crash was huge, but my mind didn't perceive it as bad, and I continued to rail ! Only to find on another day, experiencing a simple low speed fall, and getting up feeling uneasy, skittish, or scared ! The trauma can go both ways, slow or fast ! It doesn't matter whether you were injured in the crash or not, it's all about perception. It's not necessarily how hard you crash, but how your mind perceived the crash based off the info your brain registered from your 5 senses (Touch, Smell, Taste, Sight, Hearing) and muscle and brain memories from previous falls.

So, the question is, How do I remedy the problem and regain my confidence? While the way to regain your confidence is in reality very simple, the problem becomes complicated emotionally because your brain is a war with itself. One side is pushing you to GO FOR IT, because it knows you can do it, while the other side of the brain, REMEMBERS the crash and reacts to the memory by instilling fear, which results in a lack of confidence. THIS IS WHEN YOU ARE THE MOST DANGEROUS TO BE AROUND !

When your Confidence suffers and Fear rules your mind, you don't ride and react the way you normally would do. Because you are stiff, fearful and constantly fighting with yourself mentally, you try too hard and overcompensate becoming frustrated, or worse yet, Extremely Indecisive. When this battle rages, you are dangerous to yourself, and most certainly to other riders around you. You can see this battle within a rider, because they will hesitate or change their mind while attempting obstacles, lack the fluidity they once had, slow down, quit, become agitated easily, discouraged or make excuses for their performance. Ironically, the more the rider focuses in the problem, the worse or longer it takes to overcome it.

The secret is to remove your mind from the place it feels threatened. Take the time to try and relax. Get back riding as soon as possible. Avoid high pressure situations if possible such as racing. Instead, go out trail riding with friends, do something fun in your riding that relaxes you or comes easy to you, relax, breathe, and think about how much fun you are having, just ride !!! If you need to race, just go out and ride ! Use the time to regain your flow by focusing on the track or your form instead of what place you are in. Look around you, learn from others, relax, have fun ! Before you know it, you will be having fun again, riding relaxed and the speed and confidence will return. YOU MUST HAVE PATIENCE ! I promise you, the more you do this, the easier and quicker your mental recovery from a crash will be. Fight it, place demands on it, try to force it, and you may find yourself crashing again, or worse getting hurt, and the process will take longer because you became frustrated, failed to relax and let it come in it's own time.

The choice is yours....Fear and Falling or Relax and Win !

Debbie

Maintenance Questions and Suspension Set up

Q: Deb,

About a week ago I bought a 1982 yz60 for Matt & Mike. Is premium gas is essential? What is mix ratio for gas and oil? It has been so long, I can�t remember. What oil would you recommend?

I was thinking about changing the oil in the crank and didn�t know what oil is good nowadays. Any recommendations for air filter oil? Chain lube etc?

The rear end is pretty soft. Just with my hands pushing down, it takes 4 inches of travel. I think the spring might be worn out. Is that easy to adjust?

A: Hi Steve,

Congrats in getting back into bikes, I know you will just love it all over again!

As far as your questions,

The bikes will run on Unleaded, just make sure it is at least 89-92 octane, otherwise it will probably ping. I like buying race gas to mix with the pump gas 50/50 or 60/40. Your bike will run cooler and you will get less wear and tear on the parts so they will last longer. Obviously you are riding for fun, so its up to you.

Premix on a 2 stroke engine is mandatory. I like Maxima Premium 2 or Super M (castor based blend) My other favorite is Yamalube R. I recommend 40/1 or one small bottle to 5 gal of gas. Be conscious about whether you are using a castor based oil or synthetic. Do not mix the two or you could end up with an engine failure. Synthetics generally run at much leaner mixtures such as 50/1-100/1and have a shorter shelf life once mixed with the gas-about 2 weeks

Gearlube- Again recommend Maxima gear 75wt, or a 10/40 or 20/50 oil will work with other brands.

Air filter oil-I like to use the spray on lubes. They are so much easier to work with then dipping the filter in a pan of filter oil. Uni has a good spray on as does Maxima Stay away from oils that become too sticky, gum up the filter and actually restrict air flow.

Chain Lube-Maxima Chain Wax

As far as the suspension goes it should have 2" of free sag (just the weight of the bike), and about 3.5-4" of sag with his weight on it. To get these measures:

1. Put the bike on a stand and measure the distance from a point on the fender to say the center of the axle nut. Write down

2. Take the bike off the stand and let settle. Push down on the suspension a few times, then release and measure the difference between the 2 points again. Measurement #1 minus Measurement #2 = a sag difference of abt 2" (this is your free sag)

3. With the bike on the ground, have him sit on it in the center of the seat and bounce a few times on it. Let it settle with his full body weight on it. Measure the distance between the 2 points again (Measurement #1 minus Measurement #3) = 3.5-4" of sag with him sitting on the bike.(actual sag)

Release the locking rings on the spring to adjust the spring tighter (stiffer) or looser (softer) to get the settings to 2" and 4" respectively. If you are unable to get that ratio you will need a different spring. If you are able to get the correct ratio and the bike won't adjust enough on the compression and rebound settings to get a smooth ride, have the oil changed in the shock. Tighten the locking rings.

Note: Compression control how fast the shock compresses downward upon impacts, Rebound controls how fast it springs back. If the bike feels stiff and deflects or bounces off items, it is too stiff and needs to be backed off. If the bike kicks upward the rebound is too fast and needs to be slowed down. If the bike wallows, you need to speed up the rebound. Always mark down your starting suspension settings.

Locate the compression knob on the shock body, Insert a screwdriver into the clicker or turn the knob clockwise. Count the number of clicks from your current setting to full stiff (where you have no clicks-do not force clicks) write down, Example: Turn clockwise and count the clicks till they stop. Say the number you count is 6. Then your suspension is set -6 from full stiff. (C= -6) which equals where your shock compression is currently set at. Return the clicker back to its original setting. First get the compression working properly, then adjust rebound settings, unless it is so far off it wants to pitch you off the bike.

Next do the same formula on your rebound. Count the clicks and write down. Example: R= -10. Remember: Save these 2 measurements. I like to write them down on the inside lid of my toolbox. This way as you make changes, if you get confused, you can always return to your starting point and start over. Turning the rebound clicker clockwise will slow the rebound down, counterclockwise will make it faster. Ride the bike again and note if the change made the bike better or worse and make applicable changes as necessary.

Never make more than 2-4 clicks change at a time. Ride the bike with the std settings and write down how the bike feels.. Stiff, soft, bottoming, wallowing, etc. Make an adjustment to the compression and/or rebound if necessary (plus or minus 2 clicks) to make the ride more ideal such as, too stiff, turn the knob to the left (softer) or vise versa. Ride the bike again and note if the change made the bike better or worse and make applicable changes as necessary by adding or removing clicks. Once you have the bike where you want it, write down your final settings inside your toolbox lid, and get rid of the previous notes so you won't get confused.

Also make sure that the front end is balanced with the rear so that they work together. Again, on the forks, change the oil and set the oil height to about 3-4" from the top of the fork tube with the forks fully compressed and no springs. Once this is achieved, extend the fork, drop in the springs and spacer, screw the cap back on, slide the tube back into the triple clamps making sure both tubes are at the same height, clamp down the triple clamp bolts and go riding.

Debbie

Topic: Gaining confidence to clear that double jump

Q: Hi Debbie,

Seeking help! I'm trying to jump some doubles at Perris but keep backing out so if you have any advice to me PLEASE write me or comment!!!! I NEED HELP !!!!!!

Thanks, Lauren

A: Hi Lauren

I'm probably not going to tell you anything you don't already know, because in this case it is about fear, and working through fear. You already know how to jump.  To complete the jump be committed, totally committed. When you back out at the last second you make the jump way more difficult, then it would have been to just jump it, and you make yourself more prone to injury as well as dangerous to those around you who are jumping it. So first and foremost, get your head right! Be committed and do it, or don't do it, there is no try.

I have a few suggestions to help you work through this... WALK THE TRACK! Look at the jump from all angles-forward, back and sides.  Find the best takeoff point on the jump that will best help you accomplish your objective, not only for the jump, but the obstacles that follow! Alot of times our fear of the jump comes because our perception of it is skewed. When you look at it from different angles, you see that the landing isn't as bad as you thought, or you find a better lines, or even that the jump really isn't as long or intimidating as you thought, thus changing your perspective, allowing you now to be prepared mentally to attack it, which is key to your success. Again, get the mental first!

Second, find a similar jump or even that jump if you can.  Jump off to the side of it. Have someone mark where you are landing and gradually increase your speed until you get the distance. You can also over jump it and then back down your speed to perfect the landing.

Third-The one I use the most is to have someone you trust and you know is clearing it ride next to you and pace you over the jump so you know how much speed you need to clear it, and be sure you are in the correct gear! You are probably thinking, duh, but almost without question, most riders are in too low of a gear when they take off. If you can pull a higher gear without bogging, shift up before takeoff. This unloads the suspension and allows the bike to get better lift and as an added bonus you will land alot softer. You really aren't going any faster, but you are getting more lift which will allow you to clear the obstacle alot more easily. This also works really well in the whoops, because you are not dropping or driving your wheels into the whoops, but instead are skimming the tops.

Now go out and hit it! I know you can do it, so just do it!